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Mt. Baker Without the Climb
By Jenise Stone

Chef Markus prepares our dinner--in the rain!

“I’m pretty happy with this,” said owner/proprietor/raconteur Randy Finley, as he swirled a glass of his 2005 Mt. Baker Sangiovese.  And he should be.  More a food wine than a fruit bomb, there’s a fine bit of acid singing behind the red fruit, and it’s loaded with an unusual-for-sangiovese amount of white pepper.  It’s classy, and a definite step up from the 100% sangiovese he used to call Spaghetti Red.  I bought a case and several of the reserve reds.

We were having dinner with Randy at the winery which is a quick 10 miles east of Bellingham on Mt. Baker Highway.  ‘We’ being my hubby, our friends Ron and Anne, and about 60 other people. You see, Randy throws these catered dinners several times a year and invites customers who buy a case or so direct from the winery. Which is easy to do even if you don’t make the trip out Mt. Baker Highway to taste in his tasting room, which never seems to close, because anyone who orders wine at the dinner receives a substantial discount and your new best buddy Randy helps you part with your money by keeping your glass full.   Then you get invited again next year.  Oh yes, you can really feel the love!

During the evening we tasted most, but not all, of the wines available from this just-under-10,000 case winery. Typical of Randy, everyone else in this state has their 04’s on the shelves and he’s selling his 03’s.  But that’s because most wineries sell the wine and expect you to cellar it until the tannins calm down, where Randy doesn't release his wine until it’s ready to drink (though the Reserves will benefit from further cellaring). Several cool-climate white grapes and pinot noir are actually grown on the six acres that surround the winery buildings in Everson, and the rest are sourced from Eastern Washington.

2003 Cabernet Reserve:  Plum and black cherry fruit with earth and a hint of black licorice, excellent balance, good tannins.  $28

2003 Merlot Reserve:  Very pure and precise blackberry fruit, mocha and coffee notes.  Beautiful proof that merlot belongs in this state.  $24

2003 Syrah Reserve:   Dried plum and bing cherry, dense and porty.   $24

2006 Pinot Gris Barrel Select:   Randy has a lot of local customers who like slightly sweet, lower acid wines, and this year’s PG will keep them happy.  Easy to drink with a lightly sweet finish.   $13

2005 Chasselas Dore:   Chasselas is a grape they grow in cold places, like Switzerland, and Randy grows this in his vineyard at the base of our great mountain.  Taut and dry, light fruit, refreshing.   $11.50

2006 Chardonnay Reserve:   Green apple and canned pear, no obvious oak, and a hint of residual sugar in the finish.  $20

2005 Viognier Barrel Select:   Strong perfumey nose with white peaches on the palate and a sharp, sweet finish.   $15

2004 Late Harvest Viognier:  Sweet and tangy, intense, pears and honey, peaches and chestnuts.  $21 (for a 375 ml bottle)

Mt. Baker Vineyards
4298 Mt. Baker Highway
Everson, Washington
(360)592-2300
Tasting room open daily 11-5
Tours by appointment

Tell your friends you saw this article on Taste of Whatcom.com

(10-3-2007)

 

Jenise Stone is a wine enthusiast and avid foodie who lives in Birch Bay, Washington. She can be reached by emailing jenise@tasteofwhatcom.com.

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